How to Set Up EverTune

EverTune is a very useful tool. However, every tool is only as good as its user. Here we learn all the information necessary to use the EverTune bridge and hence have perfect tuning and intonation any time desired.

The Quick Start

Here is a quick start pdf version of the instructions for download. This contains the key instructions for set up. The following explanation and videos go a bit deeper on many of these instructions and describe some advanced techniques.

Quick Start Bridge Setup

First, the 3 Zones:

The following video explains the 3 Zones and shows how to position the saddle in each of the 3 Zones. Understanding how to position the saddle in Zone 2 is critical to using the EverTune bridge. And overall, understanding the 3 Zones is the key to understanding the EverTune bridge so it is worth a few moments to really understand.

The 3 Zones:

Each saddle of the EverTune bridge can be in one of 3 Zones. We can move the saddle between each of the 3 Zones using the tuning peg at the headstock.

The ‘TUNING peg’ is now a ‘MOVING peg’:

Remember, when using the EverTune bridge, the tuning peg at the headstock is ONLY used to move the saddle between the 3 Zones.

EverTune saddles have PULL:

Each EverTune saddle is pulling back away from the nut with a constant tension set by the player.

Zone 1 defined:

If the string is pulling the saddle forward with less tension than the saddle is pulling back, then the saddle is in Zone 1 (also called the ‘Back Stop’). In Zone 1 the position of the saddle will be rocked farthest back, away from the nut. Before a string is put on the saddle, the saddle is in Zone 1.

Zone 2 defined:

When the string is pulling forward with the same tension the saddle is pulling back, the saddle is in Zone 2 (also called the ‘Sweet Spot’). In Zone 2 the position of the saddle can move from farthest back (right after Zone 1), to farthest forward (right before Zone 3).

Zone 3 defined:

When the string is pulling forward with more tension than the saddle is pulling back, then the saddle is in Zone 3 (also called the ‘Front Stop’ and ‘Bend Stop’). In Zone 3 the position of the saddle will be rocked farthest forward, towards the nut.

Moving between the Zones

The tuning peg at the headstock is used to move the saddle between the Zones.

Start by loosening the tuning peg at the headstock until the string is completely slack. Here the saddle will be in Zone 1. Why? Because the string is completely slack we know it is pulling forward with less tension than the saddle is pulling back which is the definition of Zone 1.

[Remember: If ever confused about which Zone we are in, we can always bring the string completely slack and know that this is Zone 1.]

Now we tighten the tuning peg at the headstock while plucking the string and watching the saddle. In Zone 1 the pitch of the string rises while we tighten the tuning peg; also in Zone 1 the saddle remains fixed in the farthest back position while we tighten the tuning peg.

As we keep tightening the tuning peg, the strings tension will finally balance with the saddle tension and we will enter Zone 2. In Zone 2 the pitch of the string remains constant as we tighten the tuning peg at the headstock. In Zone 2 the saddle moves forward as we tighten the tuning peg at the headstock.

As we keep tightening the tuning peg, the saddle will move as far forward as it can and then stop. When it stops at the farthest point forward, we have entered Zone 3. In Zone 3, as in Zone 1, the pitch of the string rises while we tighten the tuning peg; also in Zone 3 the saddle remains fixed at the farthest forward position while we tighten the tuning peg.

To see the 3 Zones in action, every player should:

  1. Loosen the tuning peg at the headstock until the string is completely slack.
  2. Tighten the tuning peg at the headstock while plucking the string and watching the saddle.
  3. Observe the saddle move from Zone 1 -> Zone 2 -> Zone 3.
  4. Loosen the tuning peg at the headstock while plucking the string and watching the saddle.
  5. Observe the saddle move from Zone 3 -> Zone 2 -> Zone 1.

Review of the Zones

The important idea to remember is that in Zones 1 and 3 the string acts EXACTLY like a string on a conventional guitar: the saddle remains fixed and the pitch of the string changes when the tuning peg is turned; whereas in Zone 2 the string acts like a string on an EverTune guitar, the saddle moves forward and back while the pitch of the string stays constant.

Identifying the Zones

There are 2 simple ways to identify which Zone we are in:

  1. Lightly tug and release the string. If the saddle rocks forward and back with the tug and release, then we are in Zone 2. If the saddle stays fixed with the tug and release then we are in Zone 1 and 3.
  2. Pluck the string while turning the tuning peg slightly. If the pitch of the note stays constant, then we are in Zone 2. If the pitch of the note changes, then we are in Zone 1 and 3.

Zone 2 is the one to know

Zone 2 is the EverTune Zone because here the string will always be pulling forward with exactly the same tension as the saddle is pulling back. Therefore throughout Zone 2, the string will always stay in the same tuning, regardless of bending, temperature changes, string stretching, etc, because the saddle is floating with the tension of the string perfectly balancing the tension of the saddle. The constant tension functionality of the EverTune bridge is only active in Zone 2. For tuning and bending, the player must know how to position the saddle exactly in Zone 2 (see next section below).

Tuning the string in Zone 2

As mentioned above, in Zone 2 the string’s tension is equal to the saddle’s tension (the string pulls forward exactly as much as the saddle pulls back). So when changing the saddle tension to tune the string we must make sure the saddle is in Zone 2 so that we can hear the strings pitch change (in Zone 2 the string’s tension is equal to the saddle tension so when the saddle tension changes the string tension changes too).

To tune a string of an EverTune guitar:

  1. Put the saddle in Zone 2
  2. Check the strings tune.
  3. Tune the saddle tension if necessary (which will also tune the strings tension in Zone 2).
  4. Check the strings tune again and repeat as needed until the string is in tune.

How to tune the saddle tension:

To increase the tension with which a saddle pulls, simply insert the EverTune hex key into the tuning hole and turn it clockwise. To decrease the tension with which a saddle pulls, simply insert the EverTune hex key into the tuning hole and turn it counter-clockwise.

[Note: The tension of each EverTune saddle can be set anywhere in the range from 10 to 28 pounds. The EverTune hex key is a 2.5mm hex key and available in all hardware stores.

Locating the EverTune tuning hole:

There are 3 holes for each saddle that fit the same EverTune key. The tuning hole is almost hidden and RIGHT behind where the string goes through the saddle. It will be the hole farthest forward, ie closest to the nut of the guitar, and the key will insert at an angle. If unsure which hole is the tuning hole, locate all 3 holes, and the hole farthest forward, closest to the nut, is the tuning hole. The next hole back is on top of the faceplate (behind the saddle) and this adjust the height/action of the saddle. The hole farthest back is behind the faceplate and parallel to the string and this adjust the length/intonation of the string.

A note to watch out for while tuning:

As we adjust the tension of the saddle in Zone 2, the tension of the string mirrors these adjustments. As the tension in the string goes up, the string stretches more and the saddle will move back in Zone 2 towards Zone 1. If the tension in the string goes up enough than the saddle can go all the way back out of Zone 2 into Zone 1. If this happens, the player will keep increasing the tension of the saddle however the pitch of the string will remain unchanged. This is because the saddle is in Zone 1. When this happens simply tighten the tuning peg at the headstock until the saddle goes back into Zone 2. Now the strings tension will be exactly the same as the saddle tension and we can keep tuning by adjusting the tension of the saddle.

Likewise when the tension of the string goes down, the string will contract and the saddle will move forward towards Zone 3. If the tension of the string goes down enough, the saddle can move all the way into Zone 3. Here again the string will seem to stop tuning as we tune the tension in the saddle down more and more. To correct this we simply loosen the tuning peg at the headstock until the saddle rocks back into Zone 2 and then continue tuning.

Setting up for bends

Since bends increase the pitch of a string, a string must increase in tension to bend. In Zone 2, the strings tension is always equal to the saddle tension, so in Zone 2, we can pull the string all day long and the pitch will never bend. However, if we pull hard enough, the saddle will rock through Zone 2 into Zone 3, and in Zone 3 the pitch bends like a normal guitar.

So the trick to setting up for fast bends is to put the saddle in Zone 2 very close to Zone 3. How close is up to the player. If we want it to bend exactly like a conventional guitar then we will put the saddle in Zone 2.99 (ie right on the boundary of Zone 2 and Zone 3). This set up is safe for tuning stability because strings tend to relax and go flat when they go out of tune which makes them fall away from Zone 3 so in Zone 2.99 EverTune will still hold perfect tune (the one caveat to this is if the temperature goes from very hot to very cold and we are right on the boundary of Zone 2 and Zone 3, then the strings will contract and tighten sending the saddle into Zone 3 and making the string sharp).

The mechanics of setting up for bends

Now let’s go over two ways to set the saddle right at the boundary between Zone 2 and Zone 3. The first way is the visual way. First, make sure we are in Zone 2. Then lightly tug and release the string and watch the saddle rock forward. The saddle will rock forward until it hits Zone 3 and then stop. So the farther we are from Zone 3, the farther the saddle will rock forward. Tighten the tuning peg at the headstock a little and then check the saddle movement again by tugging and releasing the string. Do this until the saddle moves forward almost imperceptibly (the width of a piece of paper max) when we give the string a light tug. This is the boundary between Zone 2 and Zone 3, when the saddle moves imperceptibly with a light tug (and a bend). Check tune once here though, to make sure we are still in Zone 2. If we went too far and crossed the boundary into Zone 3, the string will be a bit sharp.

The second way to set the string right at the boundary between Zone 2 and Zone 3 is the audible way. Tighten the tuning peg at the headstock while plucking the string, until the note goes audibly sharp. Then loosen the tuning peg while plucking the string until the note is right back in tune (a tuner will help to be perfectly precise here). This is the boundary between Zone 2 and Zone 3.

Alternatively, in Zone 2 we can bend the string and listen to when it bends while watching the saddle move forward. Then we keep tightening the tuning peg at the headstock and then bending the note until the bend happens as quickly as desired. A warning about this method, even strings on a conventional guitar have a slight delay in bending. This can cause players using this method to go too far into Zone 3 because they keep thinking the bend delay is due to the EverTune. That’s why it’s good to watch the saddle while using this method to set up for bends, if the saddle stays put while bending, then the string is bending exactly as fast as a conventional guitar, even if it sounds delayed.

Now that we know how to set each saddle up in the boundary between Zone 2 and Zone 3, the same techniques can be used to set the saddle up a bit away from Zone 3, say Zone 2.9 instead of Zone 2.99. The only difference is that for Zone 2.9 we look for a slight bit more saddle movement than Zone 2.99 and we listen for a slight bit more delay in bending than Zone 2.99. Always remember that the visual amount of saddle movement equals the audible delay in bend and both can be adjusted by the player to any amount desired for each string on an EverTune bridge.

Why would a user want to be anywhere but in the boundary of Zone 2 and Zone 3 where bends happen like on a conventional gutiar?

The farther we are from Zone 3, the farther we are from any chance that the string goes sharp when we want it to play in tune. This happens on a conventional guitar almost every time we fret: unless we have the lightest of touches, our finger pressure pulls most notes slightly sharp. Add nerves and adrenaline due to a big important gig/recording session, and this slight sharp can turn to VERY sharp. This situation gets even worse when we are fretting high up the neck with a conventional guitar. So with an EverTune guitar we can set the strings a bit back from the exact boundary of Zone 3, say Zone 2.9 and all of these accidental sharps will be gone. We will have to bend SLIGHTLY farther when we want to bend, however, since the tension in the string stays the same until we hit Zone 3, the bend tension will feel the same for the same amount of bend on a conventional guitar.

Some reasons strings accidentally go sharp are:

  1. Fretting as discussed above.
  2. Hard plucking/strumming. A hard pluck can make the attack very sharp.
  3. Temperature changing from hot to cold.

For all these reasons it may be desirable to set up some to all of the saddles in the EverTune bridge a bit away from Zone 3. People who do set up the saddles in Zone 2.9 instead of 2.99 find that bends still happen easily and actually are more effective because the string can be pulled harder than on a regular guitar (up 5 to 6 half steps) and still drop back into tune.

Many rhythm guitarists and commercial recording artists live and in the studio want to avoid ever bending the strings so that their notes are always in perfect tune. Many of these players set up their EverTune saddles in Zone 2.5, right in the middle of Zone 2, so that they never have a chance of playing any notes on those strings at all out of tune.

The great part about bending with he EverTune bridge is that the choice of how much bend is completely up to the player for each string.

The following video shows how to set up for bends.

Advanced bending knowledge

Players who set the EverTune saddles up right at the boundary between Zone 2 and Zone 3, say Zone 2.99, so that bends happen exactly as fast as a conventional guitar, will notice that after awhile (maybe hours maybe days) the saddles will fall back a bit away from Zone 3, say Zone 2.9. This is especially true right after a string change. This is because strings stretch and loosen like on conventional guitars and the EverTune saddles pull with constant tension, so they take up the slack of stretching.

So before every playing session we will want to check the play in our saddles and the delay in the bend and re-adjust the saddles back to the desired position (takes about 5 seconds per string). Whenever this happens it is good to remember that the exact amount we have to turn the tuning peg to get the saddles back to the desired playing position is the exact amount we would have to turn the tuning peg on a conventional guitar to get the string BACK IN TUNE. So whereas on an EverTune guitar, after an hour of play with a new set of strings, the bends may happen a little slower, on a conventional guitar, the note would be a quarter to a half step FLAT.

And here is one last advanced technique to share before leaving the bending setup section. For those who must have the bends happen exactly as fast as a conventional guitar for an indefinite amount of time, tune the guitar in Zone 2 to be about 5 – 10 cents flat on a tuner. Then use the tuning peg to tune the guitar to tune. Since in Zone 2 it will be a bit flat, we will actually be setting the saddle into Zone 3, since this is where the string tension (and pitch of note) is higher than the saddle tension. So we will be putting the saddle somewhere in Zone 3, close to Zone 2, so say Zone 3.1. Now the note will bend exactly as fast as a normal guitar. As the string stretches over time, the saddle will rock back towards Zone 2. However, the bend delay will only happen when in Zone 2. So the string will have to stretch a significant amount before the bends get delayed at all. And in case it does stretch that much, the string will only be a maximum of 5 – 10 cents flat which for live shows is still acceptably in tune. The reason it can only be a maximum of 5 – 10 cents flat is because once it gets that flat the saddle will enter Zone 2 since this is the tension to which Zone 2 is tuned. Once in Zone 2 the strings tension will balance with the saddle tension and the string will stay at the tension set in Zone 2. So here, we play in Zone 3, and Zone 2 is only used as a safety to make sure the string never gets ridiculously out of tune. That string will play like a conventional guitar except that we can never get more out of tune than the tune we set at Zone 2.

Intonation adjustments with the EverTune bridge model ET001

Intonation adjustment is very easy and convenient on the EverTune model ET001 bridge because it can be done while the strings are on and the strings will remain in tune. Be sure to read and understand Step 3 below though (explanation of why step 3 is necessary is in the notes after). The 3 steps to intonating are:

  1. Check the tune on the open string and also the 12th fret.

  2. If the 12th fret note is sharper than the open note then turn the intonation screw clockwise which will lengthen the string. If the 12th fret note is flatter than the pen note then turn the intonation screw counter-clockwise which will shorten the string.

  3. IMPORTANT–Re-adjust the saddle to the position it was in before the intonation adjustment using the tuning peg at the head stock. Repeat these 3 steps until the 12th fret note and the open note are both in tune.

Some notes about these 3 intonation steps:

The intonation screws are the ones the farthest back from the neck of the guitar. They are at the very back of the bridge on the angled surface.

After every intonation adjustment using the intonation screws the saddle will have to be re-adjusted to the desired playing position in Zone 2 it was in before the intonation adjustment. This is a very important step. This step is necessary because the saddle is floating in Zone 2 before the intonation adjustment. The intonation screw moves the box (the module) that the saddle is floating in, so when adjusting intonation the saddle moves relative to this box! This means that if we tighten the intonation screws to lengthen the string, the saddle will move forward towards (and maybe into) Zone 3. And if we loosen the intonation screw to shorten the string, the saddle will move back towards Zone 1. Therefore, after every adjustment of the intonation screws we must re-adjust the saddle into the position it was in before the intonation adjustment using the tuning peg at the headstock.

For large intonation adjustments the open note may have to be re-tuned from time to time so check the open note after each intonation adjustment and tune it first if necessary before checking the 12th fret note.

The intonation of the EverTune bridge can be dialed in very accurately. For best results check the note at the open, 12th, and 17th fret. Once these three notes are all in tune usually all the notes in between from the 1st fret up are in tune.

Here is a video showing the intonation principles

When the intonation is dialed in perfectly and an EverTune bridge is tuned perfectly and the saddles are set up for the desired amount of bending, then it gives AMAZING sound and unforgettable playing experiences for hours and hours and hours. So please check tune, intonation, and bendability of each string before each playing session so that the guitar will be as perfect as it can be (takes 60 seconds and lasts for hours).

Action Adjustment of the ET001 model EverTune bridge

Action (also called string height) adjustment is done using the screws on the top of the EverTune bridge faceplate. We know it’s the action screw if when the EverTune hex key is inserted it is sticking straight up. The tuning screw is forward of the action screw RIGHT behind the saddle and the hex key will insert at an angle. The intonation screw is behind the action screw at the very back of the bridge, and the hex key will also insert at an angle.

To raise the height of a string, turn the action screw counter-clockwise. To lower the height of a string, turn the action screw clockwise. It’s important to remember that, like step 3 of the intonation instructions above, we must reset the saddle position after every Action Screw adjustment. This is because the action screws (like the intonation screws) move the box (the module) the saddle sits in, since the saddle is floating, the saddle moves relative to the box when the box moves. So as we lower the string height, the saddle moves forward towards Zone 3. As we raise the string height, the saddle moves back towards Zone 1. Simply re-adjust the saddle to the desired playing position in Zone 2 by turning the tuning pegs at the headstock after every action adjustment.